Experience at the San Isidro Festivals in Madrid

The San Isidro festivals are one of Madrid’s most vibrant and traditional celebrations, attracting both locals and tourists to a series of events that combine music, gastronomy, and culture.

San Isidro is the patron saint of Madrid, and his festivals, held in mid-May, are a tribute to his memory. The atmosphere is reminiscent of the traditional countryside fairs we all know and love. The city fills with processions, open-air concerts, fairs, and many other activities.

This year marked our third time attending the San Isidro festivals. With the experience of previous years, we are excited to share what it was like to experience this event, highlighting the most memorable moments and the traditions that captivated us the most.

When and Where the Festivals Take Place

Dates: The San Isidro festivals take place annually in mid-May, with the highlight of the celebrations on the 15th, San Isidro’s Day, the city’s patron saint. This year, the events began on 3rd May and lasted until 15th May.

Location: The main events are concentrated in the Pradera de San Isidro and Vistillas, but activities take place throughout the entire city, including areas that are part of “Greater Madrid”.

Experience at the Pradera de San Isidro

Bares na região da Pradera com balcões na calçada — Besides the stalls in the Pradera, many bars set up counters outside and play music.

Barracas de vendem comida e bebidas — Besides the stalls in the Pradera, many bars set up counters outside and play music.

The Pradera de San Isidro is one of the main gathering points during the festivities. The atmosphere is fantastic—it really has the feel of a traditional countryside fair, but in the capital (with a crowd size to match!).

The park is filled with food and drink stalls, as well as a full-on funfair with a Ferris wheel, bumper cars, and all the classic attractions. The rides are quite interesting—there’s even a bingo stall! And, of course, there are various stages scattered around, hosting concerts, dance competitions, and other performances.

One important tip for those looking to make the most of the experience is to pay attention to the timings. The Spanish lunchtime, which usually starts after 2pm, is particularly busy. To avoid long queues and crowds, we recommend having lunch before 1pm. We followed this tip and found the atmosphere much calmer, with shorter waiting times for food.

However, even outside peak hours, the Pradera can get very crowded, especially in the evening. Last year, for example, we attended a DJ concert that attracted a massive crowd. Unfortunately, during that event, we had a phone stolen due to the crowding and lack of controlled access.

For this reason, it’s essential to be mindful of personal security and your belongings. We recommend keeping valuables in safe, hard-to-reach places to prevent theft. Additionally, always be aware of your surroundings, especially in very crowded areas, to ensure an enjoyable and safe experience.

Experience at Vistillas

The Vistillas area is great for enjoying the festivities during the day, especially if you want to avoid large crowds. With plenty of portable toilets available, it’s a convenient and pleasant spot.

During Spanish lunchtime, when many locals are eating, the atmosphere becomes more relaxed (there aren’t many food options here, just a few sandwiches sold by some bars). The bars set up outdoor counters and play music, allowing people to have a beer in the street. This is a unique opportunity, as drinking in public and playing loud music outdoors are normally prohibited in Spain.

The live music programme in Vistillas starts later in the afternoon and can get quite busy, but the area offers more space than Pradera, making it easier to watch the performances comfortably.

Customs and Traditions

During the San Isidro Festivals, it’s common to see locals dressed in traditional madrileño attire. Women wear chulapa dresses, often with polka dots, along with a mantón (shawl) and a headscarf. Men dress as chulapos, wearing fitted trousers, a white shirt, a waistcoat, and a flat cap.

The typical dance is the chotis, where couples rotate around a fixed point, often accompanied by the sound of a barrel organ. There are competitions for this dance, and many couples, especially older ones, can be seen dancing through the streets.

It is also traditional for women to decorate their hair with carnations. This is an old custom related to one’s romantic status.

Two red and one white carnation indicate widowhood.
Two red carnations indicate that the woman is married.
Two white carnations mean she is single.
One red and one white carnation signify that she is in a relationship.

Duas pessoas de patins conversam e bebem na rua durante as festas de San Isidro em Las Vistillas, Madrid. — People enjoying a beer in the street!

Cabelo adornado com cravos vermelho e branco, típico durante as Festas de San Isidro. — I wore one red and one white carnation just because I thought it looked nice! You can buy these carnations for €1 at market stalls and from street vendors.

Mulheres vestidas com trajes tradicionais de chulapa na Pradera durante as Festas de San Isidro — I wore one red and one white carnation just because I thought it looked nice! You can buy these carnations for €1 at market stalls and from street vendors.

Typical Food

Rosquinhas de San Isidro — The traditional **rosquillas**.

Paella em uma grande panela na feira de San Isidro. — The traditional **rosquillas**.

One highlight is the rosquilla de San Isidro, a traditional doughnut made especially for these festivities, available in several varieties: “tontas” (without glaze), “listas” (with sugar glaze), “de Santa Clara” (with white meringue), and “francesas” (with almonds). They have a mildly sweet flavour and a texture that ranges from crunchy to soft. The ones I tried were a bit dry—still not sure if it was because they had been sitting out for hours or if they’re supposed to be like that. If you’ve tried them too, let me know what you thought!

Other typical treats include paella, bocadillos de calamares (fried squid sandwich), grilled chorizo, and Spanish tortilla. For dessert, churros with chocolate are a must-try. Among the drinks, be sure to try tinto de verano, a refreshing beverage that pairs perfectly with the food.

Basic Tips for Enjoying the Festivals

Picnic!: We recommend bringing a blanket to spread on the grass and having a picnic during the day. It’s a great way to soak up the festive atmosphere.
Arrive early: Get there early to avoid large crowds and secure a good spot to watch the performances and enjoy the activities more comfortably.
Ferris wheel: The Ferris wheel is a must-do attraction to get a panoramic view of the park. It costs €5, but the view is worth it.
Plan your mealtimes: Avoid peak hours, especially Spanish lunchtime, which starts after 2pm. Having lunch before 1pm can make for a more relaxed experience without long queues.
Transport: Use public transport to avoid parking and traffic issues. Madrid’s metro and buses are convenient and efficient options for getting to the festival venues.
Take care of personal belongings: In crowded areas, be mindful of your valuables to avoid theft. Keep important items in safe, hard-to-reach places.