Pamplona is the capital of Navarra, in northern Spain. The city is famous for San Fermin, which is likely the most well-known festival in the country and a major part of the region’s cultural heritage. It’s that celebration you’ve probably seen somewhere before, where bulls are released through the streets of the old town and people have to run from them dressed in white with a red scarf around their necks.
Outside of the festival season, what really makes the city tick is the pintxo culture. For those who don’t know, a pintxo is a small snack or an individual portion of food served in bars. On streets like Estafeta or San Nicolas, the tradition isn’t to pick just one restaurant for dinner. Instead, people go on a ‘poteo‘, which means hopping from bar to bar to try a different speciality in each place. That’s exactly what we did, and in this article, we’ll tell you about the places we liked most.
Typical dishes and specialities
Pamplona’s food scene relies on the quality of the local produce. Since it sits between the mountains to the north and the plains to the south, the city gets everything from grass-fed meats and mountain cheeses to vegetables that are famous across the whole country. Instead of over-the-top recipes, what really matters in the bars is how fresh the ingredients are. Many of these are protected by quality labels that guarantee the standard of everything coming from the local land and pastures.
Chistorra
This is the sausage that rules the city. It is a very thin pork sausage with plenty of paprika and garlic. It is served fried with a slice of bread and is one of the most common and affordable snacks you will find in the bars.
The “Fritos”
In Pamplona, this name refers to a type of large croquette with a very crunchy coating. The egg ‘frito’ is the most sought-after because it is incredibly creamy, but you can also find them made with peppers, ham, or prawns.
Piquillo peppers
These are small roasted red peppers. They have an intense flavour and are served with a drizzle of olive oil or stuffed with cod. It is one of the local products with a protected status that really defines the region.
Asparagus and artichokes
These represent the best of the local produce from Navarra. The white asparagus is famous for being very tender and not stringy at all. Artichokes are usually served fried or with bits of ham, depending on the time of year.
And to wash it all down? They have local drinks too!
When it comes to pintxos, the drinks are taken just as seriously as the food. These are the three options you’ll find at almost every counter in the old town.
Rosado de Navarra
Unlike those pale, almost colourless rosés, the one from Navarra is intense with a vibrant cherry colour. It’s made with Garnacha grapes and has a strong fruity flavour that pairs well even with heavier dishes. It is the region’s pride and joy.
Txakoli
Of Basque origin, this is a dry, acidic, and slightly sparkling white wine. It is served in a large flat-bottomed glass, always poured from a height so the wine ‘breaks’ against the glass to release its aroma.
Pacharán
This is the official liqueur of Navarra, made from sloe berries (a wild fruit) soaked in aniseed. It has a deep red colour and a sweet taste that is a bit like blackcurrant. It is the standard digestif that almost everyone orders in a small chilled glass to finish the meal.
Where to eat? Our favourite bars in Pamplona
The selection of bars in Pamplona is massive, and most of them are concentrated in just a few streets in the old town. To make it easier to choose, we have picked the spots we liked most during our visit and what we suggest ordering in each of them:
Bar Gaucho
It is right next to Plaza del Castillo and is one of the city’s most traditional spots. The bar is always packed and has that authentic old-school counter feel, but the snacks are much more elaborate and creative than your average pintxo. It is the perfect choice if you want to skip the basics and try dishes with better presentation and bolder flavours.
Vermutería Río
Located on Calle San Nicolas, this bar is a must-visit for anyone wanting to try one of Pamplona’s true classics. The place is simple and no-frills, with a counter that is always packed with locals. The star of the show here is the famous egg ‘frito’, a creamy egg-filled croquette that has been the house signature for decades.
Bar Fitero
We stumbled across this bar by chance, with no recommendations at all, and it turned out to be one of the best surprises of the trip. It’s on Calle Estafeta and has been going since the 50s, with a big counter full of clever and well-crafted options. What really caught our eye, aside from the food, was how attentive the service was.
Baserriberri
Located on Calle San Nicolas, this bar has a much more gourmet, modern feel. Their concept is interesting and the place is constantly winning awards for best pintxo thanks to its creative recipes. Just a heads-up that prices here are slightly higher than average, but the quality makes it well worth the extra cost.
Elizalde
Located on Calle San Nicolas, this is a unique spot that manages to be a bar, a bakery, and an ice cream parlour all at once. The real standout is the tortilla de patata, which won the award for the best in Navarra and is genuinely superb. Beyond the savoury options, they make their own ice cream with quirky flavours (like beetroot!) that are well worth a try.
And that’s not all… explore for yourself
Our list ends here, but there are far more than just five great bars in Pamplona. The truth is, the city is a food lover’s paradise and we had to skip several amazing spots simply because they were either packed or we couldn’t possibly eat another bite. The best advice is to wander the streets and explore on your own, as almost every bar has a counter full of pintxos that will make you want to try everything.
It is worth noting that Pamplona isn’t a cheap destination by Spanish standards. Prices vary quite a bit, starting at around 3€ for the basics, while the gourmet and award-winning pintxos can easily reach 6€ or 8€ each.
To keep up the pace and visit several places in one night, a great tip is to order a ‘zurito‘. This is what they call a small beer, which is perfect for pairing with food without filling up on liquid too quickly. It’s the secret to handling the ‘poteo‘ and successfully bar-hopping all night long.
