My Camino de Santiago: A journey of pain, resilience, and self-discovery!

Surviving before the journey...

This text is different from what I usually write. Here I want to share my personal experience walking the Camino de Santiago. To make sense of the decisions I took along the way, I need to explain a bit of my background first.

I was born with a malformation in both knees. Despite several surgeries, I still live with daily pain. Long walks are not recommended in my case. In fact, I was told not to do them at all. But learning to live with pain also taught me something else: not to give up on what I want to do.

Walking the Camino de Santiago had been a dream of mine since I was a child, ever since I read Paulo Coelho. And living in Spain felt like the right moment to finally do it.

So I decided to go for it. I would walk the 120 km from Sarria to Santiago. But I also knew my limits. Most people do this route in five stages over five days. I chose a different approach and divided it into shorter stages, stretching the journey from five to eight days. That way, I would arrive in Santiago de Compostela on my birthday.

But before talking about the Camino de Santiago itself, I have to say I almost did not make it there. I did not take any days off beforehand and, to fit all my holidays into one month, I made the slightly crazy decision to work ten days in a row.

The night before the trip I finished sorting everything out and, as always, threw a couple of last minute things into my backpack. I flew from Madrid to Santiago and arrived close to midnight. I stayed at Monte do Gozo, one of the best known hostels on the Camino, but only for that night. With the way I had planned my stages, I would not be staying there again later on. The plan was simple. Sleep as much as possible and, the next morning, leave early for Sarria to start the journey.


Day 1 - Sarria to Ferreiros (15km)

I started the day by taking a BlaBlaCar to Lugo and then a bus to Sarria. The journey was exhausting, especially after a few very intense days beforehand. So here is a tip: if you can, pay a bit more and take a direct bus from Madrid to Sarria. It takes around six hours, but it is far more comfortable and you can actually get some rest.

Once in Sarria, I spent some time walking around trying to figure out where to get my pilgrim credential. You need it to stay in public albergues and to receive the Compostela at the end. I eventually found it at Santa Marina Church, at the top of the town. A small place, but a nice one.

The Camino itself is clearly marked, with yellow arrows at every turn. The walk, however, was harder than I expected. Almost 15 km with constant climbs. For someone as out of shape as I was, it was a real challenge.

After four hours, I finally reached Ferreiros, completely exhausted. Because I had left Sarria after midday, I arrived quite late. There was not much left to do. A shower, the pilgrim menu, and straight to bed.

I stayed at the public albergue, paid 8 euros, and was given a disposable sheet. That was it. No blankets. So if you are planning to walk the Camino, bring a sleeping bag. Or, like me, a duvet cover, which worked just fine and was much lighter, haha.

The pilgrim's menu is an affordable meal served in restaurants along the Camino de Santiago, typically including a starter, main course, dessert, and drink.


Day 2 - Ferreiros to Gonzar (17km)

The route was longer but much easier. Until Portomarin, there were no hills, just a steep descent right at the end, where I had to hold on to the walls for support. Apart from that, it was fine. If you want to avoid this section, when you reach Portomarin you will find a fork in the path between the original route and the newer one. The steep slope is on the original path, so if you have knee issues, I would recommend the alternative. It even cuts about 100 metres. Haha.

I decided to walk in silence, without music or conversations, to really connect with the nature around me. I got so focused that I missed a turn and took the wrong path. Haha. But it led me to an incredible view. Extra tip. Allow yourself to get lost for a while and make the journey your own. Just make sure you have your map saved so you can find your way back. Haha.

Several times along the way, I thought about stopping. My feet were covered in blisters, and the pain was so strong that even putting them on the ground hurt. But I kept going. In the last 4 km, I stopped for a quick picnic and then carried on in flip flops, moving forward step by step.

When I arrived in Gonzar, I took a nap at the public albergue and later enjoyed a really good dinner. The pilgrims menu, 13 euros, was generous and well prepared. Totally worth it.


Day 3 - Gonzar to Palas de Rei (17km)

I have to admit I spent the whole night thinking about calling a taxi, hitching a ride, or finding any way out. And to be honest, those thoughts stayed with me throughout the day. What had started as a simple blister on the sole of my foot had turned into a deep wound, cutting into the flesh and hurting badly.

I spent part of the walk crying from the pain, part of it counting my steps, and part of it singing. Haha. Music really helped. While singing, I met an Italian man who asked me to sing louder so he could record it. He wished me luck and continued on his way. Along the path, I also met a Mexican woman walking with her daughter. They were doing 90 km together to celebrate her 90th birthday. That stayed with me. From time to time, older pilgrims passed by, noticed my limp and slow pace, stopped to ask if I was okay, and encouraged me to keep going.

That day, more than ever, the Camino showed me that things unfold as they have to. I had planned to walk it alone, keeping contact with other pilgrims to a minimum. But if it had not been for the people I met that day, I might not have made it.

Throughout the journey I listened to daily reflections, and that day the theme was Fear. "Do not be afraid, for God is with you." Fear came more than once, but I kept reminding myself not to give in to it and not to sabotage myself.

I arrived exhausted, but proud for not giving up. The pain was still there, strong and constant, reminding me that pushing through one day did not mean it was over. Still, I went to bed knowing that I could get through what was ahead. The Camino, and myself.

I had planned to walk it alone, keeping contact with other pilgrims to a minimum. But if it had not been for the people I met that day, I might not have made it.


Day 4 - Palas de Rei to Melide (14.5km)

Imagine waking up feeling excited because your foot does not hurt as much anymore. That was me. And the excitement did not last long. Haha.

I left Palas de Rei around 8 a.m., as public albergues have a checkout time. Since the distance to my next stop was shorter, I decided to leave a bit later so I would arrive around lunchtime.

And why was I so eager for lunch? Because Melide, my destination for the day, is famous for its octopus. But before that, the wound on my foot fully opened, and the pain became unbearable. I made it through with a lot of sweat and tears.

Apart from the issue with my foot, I did not find the path too difficult. The first day was all uphill, the second had one brutal descent, but the third and fourth days were not too steep. So here is a tip: if you are planning to walk the Camino, start taking care of your feet in advance. I had read about it, but being stubborn, I did not think it would happen to me. I was so wrong. It ended up hurting even more than my messed up knees.

Finally, I arrived in Melide with only 52 km left to complete the Camino. I was feeling a mix of emotions, worried that my foot might cause more problems, eager to reach the finish line, hopeful that I would manage without sabotaging myself, proud of my perseverance, and many other things at the same time.

Now, about the octopus. I went to Pulperia Garnacha, a well rated place, but I was not too impressed. Then I tried Pulperia Ezequiel, and that was a completely different experience. The octopus was perfectly cooked, the portion was generous, and the seasoning was spot on. I was so full I could barely walk back to the albergue.


Day 5 - Melide to Arzúa (14.5km)

The reflection for the day was "God in my journey." I spent the walk thinking about how grateful I am to Him. He knows my weaknesses, my flaws, my struggles, my excuses, and my sins. And still, He is always there and believes in me.

This part of the Camino was not pain free, but it felt lighter. I felt confident about reaching my destination, and each difficulty was dealt with one step at a time. Before I realised it, I was already close to the end of the day.

After Melide, the number of people on the path increased a lot. At times, buses would drop off groups who only walked a few kilometres. The good part was that by the time I reached my stop for the day, they had disappeared as quickly as they had arrived. Haha.

I walked this section with two Brazilian women, one of them from Vitoria, the city where I was born. Such a small world. We stopped in Ribadiso for a snack and to soak our feet in the river. Freezing cold, but absolutely beautiful. And in the end, the cold water really helped.

The Camino was full of Brazilians. I met another pilgrim from the south of Brazil who helped me with my foot, gave me some medicine, and even some sheep wool to put inside my sock for protection.

When I arrived in Arzua, I went to the medical centre because two blisters had become infected. The doctor simply said, "Keep walking, and take care of it when you get home." Haha.

Vista panorâmica de colinas verdes e lago no Caminho de Santiago, com céu azul e nuvens leves.

Day 6 - Arzúa to Santa Irene (16.5km)

Tatuagem de bússola e mapa-múndi na perna de peregrina durante o Caminho de Santiago, com mochila ao fundo.
The day began with morning prayer

The day began with morning prayer, and the reflection was about dreams and goals.

This is a very sensitive topic for me. Since deciding to walk the Camino de Santiago, I came to a sad realisation. This felt like the fulfilment of my last dream. I tried to think of others, but the truth was that I had none left. There were things I wanted to do, of course, but not real dreams. Dreams come from within and are what push us forward.

I had already achieved many dreams. Others had been lost or abandoned along the way. But what now. I did not want to go through life feeling indifferent, as if I were just living on borrowed time, accepting whatever came my way. That became one of the biggest reflections of my journey. I hoped that by the time I reached Santiago, I would not only find new dreams for myself, but also understand His dreams for my life.

I started the day in tears, lost in thought, but also with strong determination. I pushed through the pain and walked at a fast pace. I would have gone even faster if I had not soaked my boots halfway through and been forced to switch to my flip flops, which then broke just 1 km before reaching my planned stop.

But everything happens for a reason. I was so motivated that I probably would have ignored any medical advice and kept going for a few more kilometres. In the end, it was better this way.

I arrived more than an hour before the hostel opened because I had been walking so fast. With nothing else to do, I stopped at a bar, made a video call to wake up my family, who were five hours behind my time zone, ordered some croquetas, and waited for time to pass.

There was very little left. Just two more days, both with short distances. I felt excited, happy, and proud, but still wondering what new dreams I would find along the way.


Day 7 - Santa Irene to Lavacolla (12.5km)

And just like that, the seventh day began. I woke up feeling much more excited—perhaps the pain was finally making room for the thrill of reaching the end.

That excitement didn’t fade, even when faced with a massive uphill climb. At one point, I was convinced the plot twist of the Camino was that we’d end up so high that we could just hop onto a passing plane—the hill was right next to the airport! Haha.

Today's reflection was "The Camino as a metaphor for life."

I walked this stretch with a Brazilian pilgrim, and we had some deep conversations. We had faced similar struggles in life but also recognised strengths in each other. In the end, after just under three hours, we had reached our stop for the day—though we had made plenty of stops for photos, coffee, and stamps along the way. Haha.

We almost didn’t get a spot at the hostel, managing to grab the last two available beds. If there had been none left, we would have had to walk a few more kilometres. After dinner, I got everything ready to leave early the next morning. The final stretch would be a journey I needed to take alone—just thinking about the arrival was enough to bring tears to my eyes.


Day 8 - Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela (10.5km)

My birthday. And there could not have been a better gift. Emotion took over and, despite the pain, I kept going. I walked faster than ever, even as every ache in my body seemed to resurface, as if they too wanted to say goodbye to the Camino.

Limping, but moving in sync with the rhythm of my heartbeat, I kept walking. With each step, as the cathedral and the finish drew closer, my heart beat harder and my pace quickened.

I could not believe it. I did it. I completed the Camino and, more importantly, I overcame myself. The moment I reached the square, I broke down. I felt strong, grounded, aware of a strength I often forget I have.

By the end, I was swollen, sore all over, my face puffy and marked. I had every reason to feel awful. Instead, I felt proud. Proud of myself, of the woman I have become, and of the woman I continue to become. Nothing could take that away from me.

I hope this feeling stays with me. Life is not easy, but now I have one more proof that, no matter what, I can do it.

After arriving, I went straight to the Xunta office to collect my certificate and the Compostelana. Holding them in my hands felt special.

From there, I went to the cathedral. I arrived two hours before mass and managed to get a seat in the front row, just behind the places reserved for the women assisting with the offerings and readings. The service was beautiful, and I was lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro in motion. Thank you, wealthy American tourists, for making that happen.

Reaching that place meant more than finishing a route. It meant facing myself and getting through it. A day of gratitude, learning, and pride.


Tips for those planning to walk the Camino de Santiago

When to go?

Spring and autumn are the best times to walk the Camino, avoiding the heat of summer and the cold of winter. I walked in the second half of May and the weather was ideal. Mornings were a bit chilly, but daytime temperatures were comfortable.

Check the weather forecast before you go. I was lucky and only got rain after arriving in Santiago. Walking in the rain makes everything harder. And if your shoes already cause blisters, dealing with wet shoes on top of that can be a real problem.

What to pack?

A lightweight backpack (no more than 10% of your body weight)
A sleeping bag or duvet cover
Light, comfortable clothing
A jacket. Mornings can be quite chilly, even if it’s not winter
Sunscreen, a cap, and sunglasses

Vaseline or foot cream (do NOT underestimate blisters)
Flip-flops for post-hike moments
A basic first-aid kit
Comfortable, well-worn shoes
A power bank
Some cash. Some places have issues with card machines

Credencial do peregrino no Caminho de Santiago com diversos carimbos de albergues e paradas da jornada.
Always get at least two stamps per day.

Extra Tips

  • If possible, get your pilgrim credential in advance.
  • Download the Camino map on Google Maps.
  • Always collect at least two stamps per day.
  • If you can, keep your plan flexible and listen to your body.
  • The Camino is best enjoyed without rushing: embrace the journey!

Walking the Camino de Santiago was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. If you’re thinking about taking on this journey, go with an open heart. You’ll face challenges, but you’ll also find strength in the most unexpected places.

Ultreia y buen camino!

Popular