Thousands of drivers pass by every day on the motorway that cuts through a rocky pass in Burgos, but most don’t know that tucked inside the gorge, there’s a village that was one of the most decisive spots in the history of Spain. This is Pancorbo. And its strategic importance explains both its embattled past and what makes it such a fascinating stop-off today.
A key stronghold in Spain’s history
Pancorbo’s importance as a key location in Spain’s history is no accident, it is a direct consequence of its geography. The village sits in the only natural pass through the Montes Obarenes mountain range, connecting central Spain with the Basque Country and France. For centuries, holding Pancorbo meant controlling one of northern Spain’s primary trade and military routes.
In the Early Middle Ages, the pass was a vital frontier in the struggle between the Christian kingdoms and the Moorish territories. Its role as a watch post continued right up to the Peninsular War in the early 19th century, when it became the scene of clashes between Spanish troops and Napoleon’s army. The site’s military life finally came to an end a few decades later when the fortress was burnt down, and it has remained in ruins ever since.
Today, its enduring importance as a corridor is highlighted by the modern AP-1 motorway. To navigate the gorge, the road rises onto a viaduct that passes directly over the village, and it was from there that we first saw the beautiful town below, that made us stop. We spotted the church tower, a cluster of houses huddled between the rocks, and several campervans parked up. If it had so many campervans it had to be good… spoiler: it was.
Exploring Pancorbo: the main sights
Despite its size, Pancorbo has many points of interest that tell its story. The village is best explored on foot, so it’s a good idea to park your car and continue by foot.
The ruins of Santa Marta Castle
The most recognisable landmark in Pancorbo is the ruin of the medieval Santa Marta Castle, known locally as ‘La Sala. A steep path leads up from the village to a natural viewpoint, offering direct views over the gorge, the village, and the line of the motorway below.
Santa Engracia Fortress
Located on the mountain summit, high above Santa Marta Castle, this is an 18th-century fort built for artillery. The route up is longer and more demanding, but it rewards you with panoramic views of the entire region.
Calle Mayor and the old town
The main street, Calle Mayor, runs linearly through the village. Along it, you’ll find traditional local architecture, with some houses still displaying their coats of arms. The street has sections with arcades (soportales) and leads to the square where the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) is located.
The churches of Santiago and San Nicolás
Pancorbo has two main churches. The Church of Santiago now serves as a museum, though with very limited opening hours (usually only during summer). It houses a collection of striking, somewhat expressionist works by a former priest. Across the Oroncillo river stands the Church of San Nicolás, a Baroque building dating from 1714.
Puerta de Santa Marta (El Arco)
Known simply as ‘El Arco’, this is one of the few visible remnants of the medieval wall that once encircled Pancorbo, serving as one of the original gateways into the village.
The old communal washing place
Pancorbo preserves its old public wash place (lavadero), a stone structure near the river. This was once the village’s social hub, where locals gathered to work and exchange the day’s news. Today, it’s a beautiful and particularly photogenic spot.
Trails and nature: exploring the Pancorbo gorge
The same geography that gave Pancorbo its strategic importance makes it a popular destination for outdoor pursuits. As part of the Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil Natural Park, the area is a well-known spot for climbers and, in particular, for its excellent walking and hiking trails (senderismo).
Below is a summary of some of the most popular routes.
Rota do Castelo e Forte de Santa Engracia
5,8 km
Approx. 2h 15min
Circular
This route climbs to the ruins of Santa Marta Castle via an initially steep and rocky section. From the castle, there are direct views down to the village tucked into the gorge and across to the motorway viaduct. The trail then continues to the summit and the Santa Engracia Fortress, which commands panoramic views over the entire region.
The 4 Peaks Route (Peña la Liebre and Castillete)
12,9 km
Approx. 5h30min
Circular
This long route extends the visit beyond the fortresses, heading deep into the Montes Obarenes Natural Park mountains. The trail takes in four different peaks, including Peña la Liebre and the Castillete, crossing a varied landscape of valleys and open ridges. It offers a true mountain experience, with the reward of far-reaching views from each summit.
The Sendero de Barbalantes
14,4 km
Approx. 4h30min
Out-and-back (with circular sections)
As one of the longest official trails in the area (PRC-BU 222), this 14.4 km route explores the neighbouring Barbalantes valley. The experience is varied, combining the ascent of several peaks with a visit to the ruins of an ancient pre-Roman hillfort. The final section returns along the base of the gorge, offering a unique perspective of the river and mountains from below.
How to get there and practical tips
Visiting Pancorbo is straightforward, especially for those travelling by car, but a few tips can help you make the most of your stop.
How to get there
Pancorbo is located directly on the A-1 motorway (Autovía del Norte), one of Spain’s main roads connecting Madrid to the Basque Country. Access is easy and well-signposted, making the village a perfect, convenient stop-off for anyone travelling between cities like Burgos, Vitoria, or Bilbao from Madrid.
How long to spend
The village itself is small and can be comfortably explored in a couple of hours. To include the walk up to the ruins of Santa Marta Castle for the views, set aside between two and three hours. If you plan on doing one of the longer hikes, it’s best to dedicate a full morning or an entire afternoon.
Motorhomes (Campers)
The village is very motorhome-friendly. There is a well-located and free motorhome area (área de autocaravanas) with basic water and waste services. For cars, there are parking spaces at the entrance to the village, near the recreational area and the start of the trails.
Best time to visit
Spring and autumn offer milder temperatures, which are ideal for hiking. Summer is the liveliest time, especially during the festivals, but the climb to the fortresses can get very hot in the middle of the day.
The village fiesta
Pancorbo’s main fiesta takes place in the last week of July, celebrating Saint James the Apostle (25th July). Known as the Fiestas de Acción de Gracias, the village comes alive with music, street bars, fancy dress competitions and events for all ages.
Is Pancorbo worth visiting?
For those travelling by car through northern Spain who appreciate meaningful stops, the answer is a definite yes. Pancorbo isn’t a final destination in itself, but rather a stop of a few hours that delivers a density of history and scenery that’s hard to match, right next to the motorway. It’s the ideal place to stretch your legs, climb to the ruins of a real castle, and get a real feel for a place’s strategic importance, before continuing your journey feeling like you’ve discovered something most people only ever see from their car window.