Halloween has become more popular in Spain over the last few decades, largely thanks to American culture, but 31 October was a special night here long before that. In many villages, especially in the countryside, people believed the souls of the dead returned on this night to visit the living.
Today Halloween and these older customs share the same date, and every region marks the night differently. In some towns it's a street party, while elsewhere it's a procession, a bonfire or a ritual you'll only find in that one village. Here are the main traditions in each region to help you plan your trip.
Galícia
Samaín is a Celtic festival that marks the end of summer and the start of winter. Its name comes from Samhain, the festival usually seen as the origin of Halloween. Galicia began reviving the tradition in 1990, and today the night is full of witches, magical creatures and the legend of the Santa Compaña, a procession of souls said to roam the roads at night looking for living people to take with them.
What makes Galician Samaín special
Pumpkin lanterns
In Galicia people carve faces into pumpkins and light them with candles to keep evil spirits away and guide the souls home. The custom goes back to the Celts, who used turnips.
Parades and processions
Many Samaín festivals recreate the Santa Compaña with night-time processions, where people dress up as ghosts, witches and other characters from the legend.
Bonfires and magosto
In the countryside people often light bonfires on this night and hold a magosto, when families roast chestnuts over the fire and tell local legends.
Queimada
Queimada is a traditional Galician drink made by burning aguardiente in a clay pot while someone recites a spell to drive away witches and evil spirits.
Halloween events in Galicia
- Festa do Samaín in Ourense: On Halloween night the whole city turns into a horror film set, with a scary parade, a horror tunnel, pumpkin decorating, face painting, shows and music until the early hours. Read more about our experience there.
- Pontevedra: A week of activities for all ages at the end of October, building up to the traditional Noite dos Calacús. The programme usually includes crafts, scary storytelling, a themed market, live music, a ghost parade and the Procesión de Ánimas through the old town.
- Cedeira: The town that brought Samaín back to Galicia still celebrates it the traditional way. Locals carve skulls into melons and pumpkins and place them around town, and at night everyone joins a candlelit parade through the dark streets of the old quarter.
- Noite Meiga in Ribadavia: The medieval town becomes a world of witchcraft. A parade makes its way to the Praza Maior, the Castelo dos Sarmiento opens a haunted passage, and the night brings fire shows, drumming, the Akelarre dance and queimada.
- Catoira and its procession of skulls: Locals and visitors walk through the town carrying decorated skulls in honour of the dead. A band plays along the route, drama students jump out to scare passers-by, and the night ends with a magosto on the Alameda.
- A Musa de Sabucedo: A local produce fair runs during the day, and at night the Santa Compaña procession winds through the village streets. The festival ends with a purifying queimada.
Andalusia and Tosantos
Tosantos began in Cádiz in the 19th century, and the name is a contraction of Todos los Santos, because the festival takes place in the days before 1 November. At this time of year the city's markets, mainly the Mercado Central de Abastos and the Virgen del Rosario, decorate their stalls with satirical figures of politicians and celebrities.
Tosantos activities and traditions
Satirical stalls
Traders dress up their own produce, such as fish, fruit and vegetables, as politicians and famous people. The tradition works as light-hearted social criticism.
Typical autumn produce
During Tosantos the markets sell roasted chestnuts, nuts and quince paste, as well as seasonal sweets such as pestiños, buñuelos de viento and huesos de santo.
Activities for children
The markets put on circus shows, juggling and acrobatics activities for children, and the stalls hand out small bags of fruit to the little ones.
Celebrations in the streets and bars
Tosantos doesn't stay inside the markets. The bars and streets nearby are decorated too, and lots of people go out dressed as ghosts, witches and other spooky characters, so there's a real party feel in the streets.
Tosantos events
- Cádiz: This is the best place to experience Tosantos. In the days before 1 November the Central and Virgen del Rosario markets are filled with satirical displays, and there are shows and activities for children.
- Migas de Santa Ana la Real: In this village in the Huelva hills, Tosantos is celebrated with migas, a dish of fried breadcrumbs cooked over open fires in the main square and served with mosto (young wine) and grilled sardines.
Castile and León
In Castile and León the night is more closely tied to the Catholic tradition of All Saints' Day and to the souls of the dead, who are said to wander through the night in search of peace. That's why celebrations here take the form of processions and rituals in honour of the dead, which locals approach with respect and a touch of fear.
Highlights in Castile and León
- Festival das Ânimas em Soria: Held since 1986, the festival brings to life Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer’s legend El Monte de las Ánimas. For around ten days the city hosts theatre, music and readings themed around lost souls, and the highlight is the Ánimas parade through the streets on the night of 31 October. It has been declared a Festival of Regional Tourist Interest. We’ve been, and you can read all about it in our dedicated article.
- Cântico das Ânimas em Tajueco (Soria): As night falls on 1 November, two choirs of men walk through the village singing for the souls of the dead, each choir answering the other. Villagers follow in silence carrying candle lanterns, and the evening ends in the square with sweets and mulled wine.
At the end of October Spain shows a side that goes well beyond the usual tourist sights. The way modern Halloween sits alongside much older customs shows how each region holds on to its past, which makes autumn one of the most interesting times to plan a trip around the country. Joining one of these celebrations is a chance to see Spanish culture up close and take part in traditions that will make your trip richer. If you're visiting at this time of year, pick the festival that suits you best and check the programme on the local council's website before you go, as dates change from year to year.
