Some trips are truly special, and this was one of them. My boyfriend surprised me with a romantic getaway to the region where he was born: the Basque Country. And to make it even more memorable, he chose the Palacio Oriol in Santurtzi as our little retreat for this unforgettable escape.
Let me say it right away: spending the night in a real palace is the kind of experience that makes you feel like you’ve stepped into another era, and definitely into another income bracket, haha.
A bit of history about Palacio Oriol
Palacio Oriol was built around 1902 as a summer residence for the Oriol Urquijo family, one of the most influential families in the region at the time. The architect behind the project was Severino de Achúcarro, a prominent figure in Basque architecture.
The style is charming, combining French and English architectural elements, which were quite common at the time among wealthy families who spent their summers by the sea. The building was abandoned for a while before being fully restored and transformed into the elegant and welcoming four-star hotel it is today. To increase capacity, the hotel expanded its space, but managed to do so without compromising the palace’s grandeur. The original structure has been carefully preserved, including the gardens, towers, large windows and those balconies that look like something from an old film. The four additional floors were discreetly built into the lower part of the palace.
How to get there from Madrid
If you’re travelling from Madrid (as we did), there are three very practical options:
- By plane: The flight from Madrid to Bilbao takes about one hour. From Bilbao Airport, it’s a 20 to 25-minute drive or taxi ride to Palacio Oriol.
- By train: A lovely option if you enjoy watching the scenery go by. The fast Alvia train takes around five hours from Madrid to Bilbao. From the station, it’s also quite easy to reach Santurtzi.
- By car: Leaving Madrid, just take the A1 to Burgos. From there, you have a few routes to choose from. The AP-1 includes a toll of around €14 but offers wider, quieter roads. The N-1 is free, but it’s busier and goes through a few urban areas. Either way, the distance is about 400 km, and the trip will take between four and five hours.
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First impressions: love at first sight
Arriving at Palacio Oriol felt like stepping into the pages of a historical romance. Perched on top of a hill, surrounded by gardens and overlooking the bay, the building stands proud with its towers and balconies. It’s elegant and imposing, yet still feels welcoming
The weather when we arrived was just perfect: that fresh breeze typical of northern Spain and a soft blue sky. We were lucky. This region is usually quite rainy, but the sun came out to greet us and made the view even more beautiful.
Inside, it’s stunning without being over the top. There’s none of that flashy luxury that can sometimes feel a bit much. On the contrary, everything invites you to feel at home, a home that, by chance, happens to be a palace.
What it was like to stay there
Staying in a place like this has a special way of making you slow down. It feels like time moves differently, more calmly, more elegantly.
Our room had huge windows overlooking the bay. From there, we could see the museum ship, the lighthouse and even a cruise ship that had stopped to explore the area.
The hotel also serves a beautifully prepared breakfast, with Basque cheeses, artisan breads and traditional sweets. It reminded me of hotel breakfasts in Brazil, full of variety and excellent quality. In the Basque Country, the experience feels almost like being in a different country within Spain. People speak Spanish, of course, but also Euskera, the Basque language, which is completely unlike anything else. The signs are bilingual, and even if you don’t understand a word of Euskera, it’s great to feel such a strong cultural identity in the air.
Santurtzi and nearby: what to do
Santurtzi has just the right amount of energy. It has a strong local vibe, great restaurants and it’s close to some incredible places:
- Las Arenas Beach: perfect for a walk and a breath of fresh Atlantic air.
- Vizcaya Bridge: crossing this historic bridge is a must. You can go on foot or use the unique suspended transport system.
- Portugalete: follow the seafront promenade and enjoy the breeze as you arrive in this charming little town, perfect for a relaxed stroll.
When we visited Santurtzi, the San Jorge Festival was taking place, with music and lots of people enjoying the streets. Not even the rain put them off, especially the younger crowd, who gathered in groups for the traditional botellones, keeping up the custom in the very region where Kalimotxo was invented.
A quick fact about the origin of Kalimotxo
They say Kalimotxo was invented in the 1970s during a party in Algorta, a nearby town. The red wine they had bought wasn’t great, so they mixed it with Coca-Cola to mask the taste and to everyone’s surprise, it turned out to be a hit. It’s been a tradition ever since.
Other palaces in Spain where you can stay
If you also love the idea of experiencing a slice of history, and would like to try something similar, here’s a list of amazing palaces that have been turned into hotels:
Parador de Granada
(Granada)
Accommodation within the grounds of the Alhambra Palace.
Palacio de San Esteban
(Salamanca)
A former monastery transformed into a five-star hotel full of history and charm.
Parador de Lerma
(Burgos)
A 17th-century ducal palace, ideal for those who appreciate Renaissance architecture.
Hotel Palacio de Luces
(Astúrias)
A manor house surrounded by the lush landscapes of the Asturian countryside.
Palácio de Ubeda
(Jaén)
In the heart of Andalusia, this hotel blends luxury and tradition in a medieval setting.
Each of these places is a journey through time, just like Palacio Oriol.
Was it worth it?
Absolutely! This getaway wasn’t just a trip, it was an experience. Staying in a palace like the Oriol is a kind of romance you simply don’t find in ordinary hotels. It’s walking through old corridors, waking up in rooms full of history, and feeling, even if just for a few days, that you’re part of something greater and more beautiful.
And with someone special by your side, it becomes truly unforgettable.